07242017-0727 Denali cont’d, Fairbanks, Chema Hot Springs&Ice Museum

Lots of “No Service” areas here in AK, so I’ll post when I can. Right now sitting outside a Safeway market which has Wifi at 7 am on 7/28. Denali’s two days of bus tours took me out to mile 85 of 92 miles on Park Road; so, I got to see most of what could be seen without hiking into the 6 million acres that are Denali wilderness. Nice companions and drivers on bus tours sharing warmth and their own humanity at tender levels. All is in Divine and perfect order right now! While Mt McKinley/Denali was cloud covered, I had seen her previously on the journey to Denali. So, I got to enjoy everything else-the surrounding mountains, valleys, canyons, rivers/ creeks/ lakes, wildlife, wildflowers, trees/ bushes/ grasses, braiding of rivers, more stones than one can imagine, smell of really fresh air, sounds of the wilderness in water/ wind/ wildlife/ and companions on the journey. It amazes me that wilderness does have its own order and randomness at the same time-perfectly aligned trees and rock formations and totally random occurrences of same-but, I have limited human observations while Mother Earth is perfection. There are 130 active volcanoes in Alaska! Denali is considered Arctic desert-who knew? Not I, for sure. And permafrost, areas below surface land, that never thaw out, so that before building a road the area must be dug down to permafrost level so it can thaw over a couple of years! A good portion of Chena Hot Springs Road had many series of dips in the Road which made for an interesting roller coaster type of drive with scenic beauty to knock my socks off. Relaxing in the hot springs for many soaks, then napping, and returning for more soaks revived my body and soul. Chena Hot Springs with lodge and campgrounds draws people  from all over the world speaking their native languages which gets me into a global perspective, which I appreciate. The Aurora ice Museum topped off the day with magnificence! The museum is kept at a constant 25 degrees, so the sculptures don’t melt! It has a bar which serves Appletinis in glasses made of ice! It has a chapel, where world-reknowned ice sculptors couple married! It has its own igloo with an ice xylophone, bedrooms with caribou pelt coverings for seating. Colored lighting throughout adds to the ambiance. Amazing!

Wednesday, 7/26, I spent traveling to Fairbanks and in the Morris Cultural Center in Fairbanks being enlightened and entertained. Videos of archeological and environmental information along with the museum broadened my knowledge. The cultural presentation of indigenous young people dancing and singing entertained and delighted me. A helpful NPS Ranger helped me decide which way to go next to accomplish getting to my objective of seeing all NPS sites in AK, of which there are 16, to which only a small portion can be attended by driving! Roads are very limited in AK; l guess paved roads get to less than 10% of the state! Marine Ferry and fly is how I’ll get to the remaining NPS units, as I’ve driven to the only ones that can be driven to: Klondike Gold Rush NHP, Wrangell-St Elias NP &Preserve, Kenai (pronounced keen-eye) Fjords NP, and Denali NP& Preserve. Because of the remote locations, NPS has passport stamps for remote locations at accessible locations. On Wednesday at Morris Cultural Ctr in Fairbanks, I obtained passport stamps for Gates of the Arctic and Yukon Charley Rivers NatlPreserve. And in Homer, I obtained passport stamps for Lake Clark Natl Preserve and Katmai NP&P. At this point, I’m half the way there, with 8 passport stamps obtained and 8 more to go, for a total of 382 NPS units visited out of 417 total. Still to go are 8 in Hawaii, 6 in PR/Virgin Islands, 1in Guam, 8 remaining in Alaska and some scattered thru lower 48 that were closed when I went through the area. Anyone interested in joining me on the Hawaii, PR/Virgin Islands, or Guam adventures, please let me know.

Back to Denali. The Dog sled demonstration and kennels are fabulous! I didn’t realize that Iditarod dogs are bred for speed, while others are “working” dog teams, that haul, as part of a team, 40+ pounds each on missions. At Denali, in winter with temperatures colder than 40 degrees below zero, they haul rangers and materials needed to various sites in the park, and remove/bring back items needing to be removed from their current locations. Dogs in the team love their work! The mushers, people who work with dog sled teams, seem to love it, also, as was stated in a Ranger presentation about the 4 females and 1 male Ranger on the Winter Team. No hot showers for 3 months? Hmmm. Want Water? Melt dry snow. Want heat? Start a fire. Want food? Bring it with you. That’s really adventure! Hear nothing, still and quiet. No technology or communication with anyone but team members and radio communication with home base operations for 3 months. Talk about isolation! Oh, working sled dog teams don’t have dominant dogs; the dogs are put in different positions and rotated-can humans learn something from this approach? Okay, talked out, rather typed out. Y’all enjoy now, as it is all we truly ever have.​ PS- working sled dogs retire after 9 years to be adopted by loving caregivers residing in really cold places. Ten-minute showers obtained by purchase of $4.50 token in the shape of a bear head! I used outdoor electric outlet at Riley Creek Mercantile to charge phones and heat decaf coffee water in hot pot. Denali has its own USPO where the postal worker agreed to hand stamp postcards for me; postcards required additional postage and stamps can be overlapped-who knew?

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07052017 to 07082017  – catching up on what I missed posting

Elk Island, Jasper, Banff, & Yoho Canadian Natl Parks and Miette and Liard River hot springs to get me to mile 0 of Alaskan Hwy on 7/8/17 in Dawson Creek. Elk Island in Alberta, Canada, introduced me to Bison being of two varieties-prairie bison vs wood bison, the latter are larger and have a more exaggerated bump.   The moose in the middle of the road tickled my fancy, for sure. The spiral “staircase” for the train to travel up the mountains surrounding Kicking Horse Pass was quite amazing! Miette hot Springs at Jasper NP were quite relaxing while Banff provided amazing scenery and goats. But,  what thrilled me most was taking pictures by moonlight over the same route I had just driven in sunshine-so cool! Mile 0 of Alaskan Hwy in Dawson Creek on 7/8 encouraged me on this long journey knowing I was indeed closer to the Last Frontier of Alaska where I’ve not been before.

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07232017 to Denali & VisCtr

Beautiful drive to Denali, stopping for pix along the way. Honolulu Creek fascinated me, as I did somerockhounding  there. Got checked in at campground, instant tent setup and off to Visitor Center where I am now outside using wifi to post this at 5:30 am. Four hours time difference from NY’s EST. there’s 20 hours of daylight now. Ranger presentation on winter sled dog work was very interesting followed by Denali’s Park video. It’s Denali’s 100th anniversary! After Visitor Center, I drove the 15 miles to Savage Creek, stopping for pix. Today I take the Nature history bus Tour. Rain is predicted for the next week here! 

07092017 07152917 Canada Alaska

Sooo much to share and such a small space especially compared to the big amount of space in the Canadian Rockies, Northern Rockies, British Columbia, Canada and the Yukon! Such an eye opener and with daylight around 20 hours a day there’s plenty of time to see it!

 

07022017 to 07042017 more Canada

Left Super 8 in Wwinnepeg, after enjoying Canada Day , 7/1, festival the night before with music, fireworks and good eats of all kinds. Used Yahoo maps for getting to Riding Mtn National Park and was it off-it only took me to Firth Lake, but then I found my way to the real deal which is awesome! Camped there and then headed out of Manitoba Province into Saskatchewan where a bear was roadside and I drove on road while he sauntered on the roadside stopping to eat along the way. I took numerous videos and pix for around a half hour-so exciting! Needed to get my tires rotated and an oil change, so headed to Costco in Saskatoon for gas & rotation but they don’t do oil change-I’ll try Edmonton tomorrow for that. The driving is so pleasurable-greenery, water, birds, deer, signs warning of moose which I did not see, light to no traffic, speed limits topping out at 110km/hr giving me better gas mileage, plentiful Provincial parks and camping, and the pleasant Canadian sense of humor and friendliness along the way. As I post this at Alberta visitor center on 7/4, I had departed Gordon Howe campground at 6:30 am in Saskatoon where I went spent the night after my Canadian Costco mission. Happy July 4th to all! Reminded that during tough times of my life there was a Birthday to celebrate and now our country faces challenging times and we celebrate her birthday of 241 years-and send blessings to all who have made her who she is today with hopes of a brighter future. I’m grateful to have a button on my Prius to switch from mph to km/hr, a new “instant” tent which is fairly easy to put up and take down, humor as in the signs for restrooms as Pointers for men’s room and Setters for Women, no hint of chlorine in the water, a gentle breeze, good health, awakening to the sounds of birds singing, and the opportunity to do what I’m doing with all the pleasant surprises along the way-Russell inn in Russell CA since my great grandmother was born a Russell, Gordon Howe’s mother being born in Winslow, services I need appearing when and where I need them, and so much more! A grateful heart leads to more things to be grateful for, right? {pix/video of bear on other phone so none here-sorry}

07012017 Canada Day-150 years! Oh, Canada!

Hooray, in Winnipeg, Canada in the Province of Manitoba, where my only uncle, Uncle Mike, was born! What an adventure SD through ND, thru border showing my passport and chatting with agent, who suggested I stop at Visitors Center 1/2 mile in. Bless you young man, for I was able to exchange US$ for Canadian at no charge with exchange rate of $1US=$1.23CA, got location of Winnipeg celebration, got to view some historical exhibits, was given a map/pin/campground locations, got information on where to get the entrance card allowing me free admission to all of Canada’s National Parks (In celebration of Canada’s 150th anniversary, all are given free entrance to their Natl Parks-so if you’ve wanted to go to Canada’s Natl Parks, this would be a wallet-friendly time for it, right?) I am so grateful for my Prius having a button to push for speed from mph to km/hr since Canada posts km/hr; so 110 km/hr is easy, especially with cruise control, too. 

I was awake and ready to go by 5:30. Got McD decaf and egg mcmuffin with a little Wifi and headed out. It was raining as I drove through North Dakota and I got sleepy around 11am. So, I pulled into a McD’s to take a nap and had a very curious dream which I am still processing. As I exited and headed towards I29, there was a bank with ATM, so I could get some cash out for my Canada to Alaska adventure. When I stayed at Super 8 on Thursday, I caught parts of the movie, Forest Gump, and today I realized that my driving everywhere is similar to Forest’s running! He just ran and I just drive! ND’s town of Drayton is the Catfish Capital of the North-bet you didn’t know that. A billboard sign in Pembina County reads simply, Be Kind; I love it-what a different world this would be if all people followed that admonition. Before I crossed the border, I turned off my two other phones, since Verizon’s best deal to use my old phone was $5/day each time I used it and my android plan with Totally Wireless has no Canada option. Using the iPhone my daughter gave me, and my son-in-law kindly set the phone up for me with unlimited everything for $44/month with AT&T, so I can use the GPS/maps app on IPhone to get around. And, I can use it to find out if Costco was open in Winnipeg-yes, I finally joined Costco primarily because every Costco has nitrogen for tires and I have had great difficulty finding nitrogen. Sky was beautiful as I entered Canada and temperature around 70. Many things named after saints I’ve never heard of – Adolph, Norbert, Vital. I’m sure there will be more saints I’ve  never   heard of before. Parking angels found me a great spot and it’s time I headed to the celebration. Happy Canada Day!